Joined: May 22, 2003 Posts: 23948 Location: NSW, Australia XP: 3,060,914
Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:36 pm Post subject:
Hi JP,
Sorry i havent been around bro but ive been offline for a few months.
Did you end up fixing this box??
Sounds like you were close.. Ive done a few myself and sometime the tension on the screws is touchy and sometimes it doesnt matter.. It really depends on how much the motherboard has warped i think from the overheating.
anyway, if you have any updates for this post be sure to let us know what happened..
Joined: Nov 17, 2004 Posts: 5222 Location: Tennessee, USA XP: 1,166
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:21 am Post subject:
You'd want to overheat the GPU only for about 10 minutes. Keep the CPU cool by having the 360 fan sit on top of your dvd player but over the CPU. You'll know you are doing well if your fan starts to speed up but you don't want the overheating indicators to flash. Just warm it up some, then let it cool. Give it another try. I had 3 rings after the fix and a quick bake did the trick. Also as Hobbs said, try increasing slightly the tension on the screws holding the heatsinks. I'd recommend the Llamma kit for the rings I suspect that not having nylon may be creating a heating issue for you. The kits are inexpensive, proper fit and perfect width.
Just my two bits.... _________________________________________________________ http://twitter.com/HQ_Shark2th
SCARFACE Administrator
Joined: Feb 06, 2007 Posts: 2470 Location: Minnesota, USA XP: 58,502
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:21 am Post subject:
another good thing to do after you do get it fixed is every 6months if you game a lot put new artic silver paste on there as the stuff does dry up after awhile and start cooking the cpu and gpu chips thats what i been doing for all my customers and so far none have came back to me with 3rod. _________________________________________________________ The one the only Scarface!!
OmegaNuEpsilon 360-HQ Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 12, 2008 Posts: 22
XP: 0
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:32 pm Post subject:
I'm in the middle of fixing someone elses RRoD myself so I've got some experience.
Your code sounds like 0102, if I interperet your post right. That mean's there's a broken solder joint somewhere, or possibly a bad/burnt component.
I did the x-clamp replace. I don't live near a town, but I went in and tried to pick the hardware by eye. I bought nylon washers that were extremely too big. Eh
What I ended up doing was putting the screw's straight in the back, cut my own washers from an icecream pale because I didn't want to go back to town, and put a washer on top of them. here's the order:
Screw
Motherboard
Nylon
Washer 1mm thick.
Now, I'm still getting 3 red rings, but if I lossen the screws at all, I get 2 red rings, you can get that if your heat sinks aren't making contact.
Now, back to my case and likely yours. I get 0110, and for fixing it says (see 0102). There are other chips that don't get the benifit of the heatsink, or that may not heat up enough with by letting it over heat to reflow the solder.
There is a heatgun technique that I'm going to use on monday, (I don't have one, but the buy I'm fixing the box for does, he's running it out to me then). There are some vids on the technique, but basically, you use the gun on a broad area of the board where the GPU is(the short Heatsink).
I highly reccomend using the Vid.
(this isn't the same one I learned it on, but it's the most accurate I could find again, displays the tin foil use better than I can explain):
But here are some tips, because people tend to place bad emo music on video's and not narrate.
Step 1:
Get some tinfoil and cover all of the components that stick up off of the board. Heat-guns are blow driers that are on steroids, and can ruin/burn stuff. The original video I saw this on did a demonstration on a piece of paper and turned it brown instantly(ie burnination)
Step 2:
Slowly heat the board, Always move the heatgun, use wide arcs and circular motions.
Step 3.
Set the heat gun on the high settings and really get the board cooking. Still don't hold the gun still as you may scorch chips and such. Start on the side you're going to let rest(where the X clamps were) get it good and hot but be hesitant about it, the real heating is to be done on the other side, because you want to avoid board motion at all costs. Don't touch board for a long time as it will be too hot, and the solder needs to cool.
While I'm waiting on the heatgun I am going to try the penny method(a vid on youtube), or a variation. From what I've seen it just re-enforces the pressure on the chips on the bottom of the board where the thick pads are placed. If that does it, I'll be more than happy, as the heat gun / solder reflow is a bit dangerous.
Anyways, good luck.
robbieboy 360-HQ Freak
Joined: May 15, 2006 Posts: 911
XP: 886
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:02 pm Post subject:
Ok there's one other way you can go here.....
you need to bend the mainbord the other way by putting the x-clamps back on... BUT you will need to put the 1mm washers on the pins before you put the x-clamp on (between the mainbord and the x-clamp's)
then re-heat like normal......
and this is a must.... also fix the mainbord back in the the metal case before heating so it keeps the mainbord flat.
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