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360-HQ.COM :: x-clamp fix, suggestions to those that have failed
x-clamp fix, suggestions to those that have failed
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deltaarmstrong2000
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Post Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:43 pm   
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Don't worry, I've got three like that right now. The best one is someone cut a nice round hole in the lid for more airflow over the cpu heatsink, the only problem was that when they traced where they wanted it, they had the lid turned bottom up, cut it and found out the hole was over the dvd-rom when put together...oops. I like to leave the heatgun to the last when all my options fail. Seems like a good weekend job for me.


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forahobby
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Post Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:47 pm   
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Great info guys.. I have added this topic to "The Best RROD Fix Topics" which is a sticky... Thanks for taking the time..

Heres a link:

How to Fix: Xbox 360 Error Codes with the X-Clamp
http://www.360-hq.com/postx3819-0-0.html

talk soon guys,

hobbs
http://www.360-hq.com


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deltaarmstrong2000
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Post Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:10 pm   
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Thanks for making it a sticky Very Happy I knew someday I'd give a good tut for everyone to enjoy.
Thought I'd add an update to this as well.
After doing more and more of these things, all that I have put into it are still working, but I must stress this so I don't get flamed. All the ideas are gathered from many many tut's that are floating around, and there is no one person that I can accredit (list would be about two lines long of the tags of contributors to other info), so remember please don't thank me, thank the community and xbox-hq for giving this site so gather all the info we have to date Razz Razz
Now for the major update...
I got a temp gun and the heat dissipated from the heat sink is 160 F, so I am unsure if the die is actually getting above 220 deg for proper re-flow. It 's something that is being debated everywhere right now and heatgunning seems to be the most effective way of either fixing it or making sure it does not work again, so if you are comfortable of doing it, this is the way to go. Let me warn you if you do not insulate the surrounding capacitors you better have some glasses on when they blow Shocked . It's still a last resort to me.
Also, I am now clamping the board straight through the metal case, just started to become habit for me. I feel more comfortable that it IS keeping the board level, and I am using FIVE 1mm #10 metal washers per post. This can vary depending where you purchase your washers from due to thickness variations. Use a good eye to make sure you do not create the center of the board to warp, it might effect the hana chip from coming loose and then you do have to heatgun the board. The reason for the metal washers is that it is transferring the heat to the metal case and now you have on huge heatsink Laughing #10 washers are the correct size (10mm in diameter), so you do not have to worry about shorting out to a hole through point. If M$ want the board to be insulated from the case, they would have used plastic standoffs like computer cases otherwise.
Keep the ideas and you results coming, and thanks again to all contributors from various sites for ideas and info.


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deltaarmstrong2000
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Post Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 7:32 pm   
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I found it (I think), the problems to all those red lights - definitely with video problems. I was looking long and hard at my last x-clamp fix, and couldn't figure out what looked wrong, then I looked at the back through where the fans should be.... warping board. One problem was mine, the other is 100% M$. It should be FOUR WASHERS under the board if you are clamping through, the other is this. There is a raised spot one the metal case for support of the right rear leg of the DVD-ROM. It's way to friggin high, about 2mm to be close. Thats where my 5 washers in my previous post came into play. I even looked at an unmodded 360 and it was warped at the exact same spot as well. Do whatever you can to remove the top off this standoff and the board WILL sit flat with the bolt through method and fastened with the original bolts around the side. I even took too much off to support the board. Don't even put the bolt back through to hold down the top. Three bolts are enough to hold the drive in place and five to hold the lid down. Tried this on another problematic 360 and it's now alive. Take the fans out and look through the case and you will see what I mean. Let us know in here if you have the same problem as well. Oh ya, I also drilled the front one out a bit to level it out as well. Could have been the case itself had twisted in manufacturing when everything was punched and pressed, but it seemed to do well. The front IR panel slid in quite nice and did not seem to have any resistance as when I took it out.
Delta


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deltaarmstrong2000
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 1:48 am   
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Well son of a B, I didn't see the new and improved tut that Wilhelm had made, and had the same conclusions as I did about the standoff's. Damn, I thought I found it first. The link is posted a in another topic in this sub-forum, but seeing as how Wilhelms tut has a nice video and outlined topic on the fix - and this is stickied at the top here's the link. It's basically everything I have posted all wrapped into one. By all means give him the credit, as mostly he started to put it all together into one package for everyone to read and learn.
http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=hybrid


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forahobby
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:51 am   
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Thanks for updating deltaarmstrong..
all info will help our members in the very near future. Smile

as always please post any xbox 360 related info you may find useful to our website.


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dartht33bagger
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:57 am   
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This is the best RROD fix tut I have seen:http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=hybrid
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deltaarmstrong2000
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 10:16 pm   
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Now it's posted twice Razz You were the one that posted it first so the props go to you for finding it. I e-mailed Wilhelm about the 99% alcohol, and maybe he will update in the advanced section when it's ready. I talked to a couple of computer design engineers and they both say that yes it will work, but it does leave a microscopic film on the die heads. Now for the average user this is not a problem, but if you use the actual thermal paste remover that is on the market there is no chance of the film being left on. So average users use the alcohol, but if you are in the habit of doing multiple consoles then it is more cost effective to use the actual thermal paste remover. Also when you have drilled out your holes, instead of filing, I just use a larger bit and countersink slightly to remove the burrs. It's a whole lot faster and gets the job done. My only concern is with the foam pads under the board. I took my temp gun and read 180 deg F under the heatsink(that's the limit before the two red lights for overheating thermal protection). I'm wondering with us die hard gamers if there is any loss of resistance to the underside. Kinda like the pad will form to the underside instead of always having some slight pressure. Guess time will tell....


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dartht33bagger
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Post Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:12 am   
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What I'm wondering is wont the foam melt or something with all the heat right by it?
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deltaarmstrong2000
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Post Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 3:08 am   
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Well, I got the next couple of days off before christmas, so maybe I'll go to a craft store and see if I can find the foam he's talking about, and fire the heat gun on it and see what happens Shocked
I'll do my best on getting a temp on it as well. If it's under 120 deg, we have problems.
I think the original eraser trick would be best, just getting the right thickness is the problem. Most dollar stores have those huge novelty erasers.
Hey, where did that ninja avatar come from??? No problem with it, just curious who put it there Wink


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